If you want an aluminum cammer, then get an aluminum cammer.  Screw the data.  If all we do is crunch numbers when making decisions, then there's no passion in living.  How many opportunities are you going to get for a '67 Mustang with an aluminum cammer?  Go for the gusto, my friend and screw the data.

Manufacturer sites can leave something to be desired. I went to Edelbrock's site and they do not have a comparison feature.

So, if you go to Summit's site, https://www.summitracing.com/ you can select the various heads and check the comparison box then see the actual differences.  The 6005 is just the basic medium riser configuration with a 16-bolt CJ flange and built with springs for a hydraulic roller cam.  The 6069 is the same head but has springs for a flat tappet cam.

Hope that helps.

Is the control valve attached to the drag link to the appropriate depth?  Generally, you center the steering box, thread the valve to the link until just a few threads are showing or as close to that as you can where you don't have to move the pitman arm very much.  It should go without saying that if the box isn't centered and you don't fully thread the valve that you will run out of steering in one direction (sorry, can't recall which direction).  Most of the time, it's not a very precise operation and the difference is within the design of the box and the tie rod adjustment.

As to the hard steering;  Are you double damn sure you have the hoses from the valve to the cylinder routed correctly?  Normally, you'll get a wild steering wheel when they're backward, but it's possible you just end up fighting hydraulic pressure.  There is a bias adjustment on the control valve.  To center the valve, you remove the cap on the outside end, remove the ram rod from the frame bracket, start up the engine and observe the movement of the rod.  If the control valve is properly adjusted,the rod will not move.  If it drifts out or in, you have to adjust the valve.  It doesn't take much turning of the nut to affect the valve bias.

The power steering system is made by Saginaw...yeah, a GM system used on Novas and 62-82 Corvettes and others.  The guy who engineered that system is Jim Shea.  He's still around and has published just about an entire library of how to work on the system and every engineering specification.  Google him.

If you make no other changes, the mid-range will be stronger.  Not profoundly stronger, but seat-of-the-pants stronger.  FE heads are not all that bad in actual performance.  Yeah, I know the flow numbers for a lot of the garden variety heads are not all that outstanding, but you can't drive a flow bench.  So, you're swapping a low rise head for a medium rise head.  The combination will determine your true outcome.

That's a significant failure on TF's part if they are not informing customers they can't just run their heads. 

I'm missing something here.  I thought it was something like common knowledge that you had to mill the stands .200" or so  (not the pads on the heads.  That would be foolish) and use custom pushrods to get the correct geometry.  This was something that was highlighted as a caution for anyone when these heads first hit the market. Is that not what is being discussed?

Bottom line up front:  I had them on my '67 Fairlane.  I took them off and put on some CJ manifolds.

They are good headers as far as making power.  No question about it.

I got fed up with the compromises with these headers.  The two low tubes on the driver's side weren't a real problem.  I scraped them a couple times, but nothing severe.  But man, just about everything was a problem with clearance.  I had to change the driver's side engine mount.  Can't get to the mount with the header in place.  Okay, how often are you going to change the mount?  Probably not again but still....  If you have power steering, the hoses need to be re-routed both at the pump and at the valve.  The steering Pitman arm hits the header and will require you to dent a tube enough to clear and give you full steering.  If you have a clutch, the lower arm will be either very close or will rub the tube.  While one tube does come within a whisker of touching the oil filter, I don't believe this is a point of concern as air is flowing around the area while the vehicle is in motion.

Yes, the collectors do exit at different points back on the chassis, but this isn't a significant issue.  It makes fabricating the exhaust a little tricky but it's really not that bad.

The passenger side header wasn't an issue at all.  It cleared the factory starter and an aftermarket mini starter I later added.

They aren't very easy to install but most of the difficulty is from how tight it is around the tubes and the shock towers.  There is usually some difficulty with all headers, so this is just the cost of doing business.  It would be the same difficulty with manifolds since the shock towers are the biggest issue and they're still there whether you do headers or manifolds.

So, I guess the question is;  Am I happy with the CJ manifolds?  For me, yes.  They are much better than headers because the manifolds addressed the issues that were concerns.  The headers do make more power and I'm talking about the amount of power you can feel in the seat of your pants.  That may be a significant point for some.