Author Topic: Since I'm up to my ass in detours of screwed up parts I'm double checking  (Read 2546 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Qikbbstang

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 892
    • View Profile
I have an approx. ten year old never run Crane Hyd Roller. I have a NOS vintage roller thrust plate from PBF that I was under the impression I didn't need to run (requires machining the timing gear to install I believe) but now I'm told I may need a bronze thrust plate or roller and that the factory cast iron plates are not going to work/last with the Crane steel roller cam. I just don't want any more friggen surprises.
 
     

WConley

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1160
  • No longer walking funny!
    • View Profile
BB -

The basic rule of thumb is that cast iron and steel do not like to run against each other.  The iron loses that fight and sends little bits of itself throughout your engine.  The stock thrust plate was designed for the stock iron flat-tappet cam, so changing the stick to a steel roller changes everything.

I would recommend machining the cam gear for your roller setup.  The bronze thrust plate may work, but it will wear over time.  With the roller you can fuggetabouttit.

- Bill
A careful study of failure will yield the ingredients for success.

blykins

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4828
    • View Profile
    • Lykins Motorsports
There are steel thrust plates out there.  I'm not a fan of roller bearings on the cam gear, but hey, if someone else is doing the assembly, sounds good to me.  :)

Barry uses a lot of the bronze thrust plates if I remember right.  Maybe he'll chime in.  I use both steel and cast iron and to be honest, I've never seen an issue with running a steel cam with a cast iron plate as long as there is adequate oiling there.  I suppose if you wanted to be politically correct, you'd run a steel cam, with a billet steel timing set, and a steel thrust plate.
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com
www.customfordcams.com
502-759-1431
Instagram:  brentlykinsmotorsports
YouTube:  Lykins Motorsports

fekbmax

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1460
    • View Profile
Be sure you don't run to much camshaft end play with the roller thrust bearings. Especially on a street or higher mileage build. Just a small amount of to much end play will beat the hell out of the rollers causing them to come apart.
JMO.
Keith.  KB MAX Racing.

blykins

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4828
    • View Profile
    • Lykins Motorsports
That's why I don't use them.  Just have never had a warm and fuzzy feeling about setting cam end play up to zero. 
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com
www.customfordcams.com
502-759-1431
Instagram:  brentlykinsmotorsports
YouTube:  Lykins Motorsports

Qikbbstang

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 892
    • View Profile
Bill LOL I like the logic of your bronze thrust plate may work, but it will wear over time.  With the roller you can fuggetabouttit......... Brings into perspective the classic: When you're up to your ass in alligators It's difficult to remind yourself that your original objective was to drain the swamp.  Right now I'd just be happy to get my 427 together and the fuggetaboutit  (runs forever) seems like a fantasy.
Just put my hand on my roller thrust plate kit w/two pages of directions and yes they machine on cam gear a new depth of the step to .400" plus or minus .002" and a reduced OD of the step to 1.745" to 1.750". I can't believe the mfg does not include shims nor even mention them but I suppose when you're splitting a couple thousandths a common round shim is hard to find. I get the feeling they expect you to machine the gear after trial assemblies........... The measure twice machine once trick!