From my humble opinion, it looks like you’ve covered your bases well. 100 h.p. kit is not going to hurt anything, maybe the asphalt will feel punished a bit is all.
At the cubic inch capacity, if in sound condition, if in a proper state of tune now, you follow the directions, install the "kit" properly, establish sufficient fuel delivery, at 100 H.P., you should have no problems, other than refilling the bottle!
At this H.P. level, again, if in a proper state of tune now, even a timing retard sum should not be required; remember, the "kits" (particularly "novice kits") are jetted overly rich intentionally to actually reduce the operating cylinder temperature.
There is increased load on components, so if your engine is ready for the junk yard then well.................
In the late '70's worked with Marvin Miller (of M.M. N2O, remember him?
) , we came up with the first N20 "Cheater" plate system (this was before Nitrous Oxide Systems existed) with my own drill bits (no jets yet!
) going back & forth with calculations for area & flow sums, taking his 75 H.P. plate up to.......(?); well, my F350 4 X 4 (1-ton) P.U. with 400 engine (167 H.P.), C6 and 14" x 36" x 16.5" (big in the day
!) tires ran 14.30's in the quarter (O.K. not a great accomplishment, but otherwise it ran in the low to mid 20's, with out a headwind
!). After we establish values for the "Cheater" kits, I proceeded to see just how far I could go with N2O injection and I actually got to the point of pressuring the intake causing the carburetor to shut-down which didn't work very well.
I had tired of the constant requirement for bottle refilling (in those days one turned their bottle in to the filling station, who then had to ship it to another town to be filled and back, this all requiring a week
!), and for my off-road excursions (greater durations of nitrous operation...even minutes vs. seconds
!), I adopted a 55-pound bottle (steel, yes it was heavy, but so what, it's mounted in a one-ton truck
!) behind the seat, that at times I would be 'on-the-juice" for so long the the 55-pound steel bottle, as big and heavy as it was (if I recall about 180 lbs.; was a mother to load in the truck by one person......me
!) would frost!
The only failure the engine suffered was a melted exhaust valve head that 'flowed' out the exhaust port. I pulled the one head, had Fred Kinney @ BoLaws Automotive R & R the one valve, total cost was $12.55, I think the cheapest anyone ever was billed by the establishment, and I was back in business! It was funny, when I presented the cylinder head to Fred on the bench, he looked at the carbon in the cylinder chambers which had all formed into little spheres (looks like little balls of mercury only black and hard as rock
.) he said what the heck is that (remember nitrous was not common at this time)? That's what happens after five or so minutes amounting to 40 or so pounds of constant nitrous operation; I said I was attempting to make artificial diamonds!
And, the 400 had the stock cast pistons without a failure!
Oh, but on the nitrous, due avoid the rev-limiter, as though possible, hopefully not an induction back-fire, but it sure can be hard on the exhaust system (the mufflers just open up at the seams
!)
Scott.