Now that the tunnelwedge is available again, given the design of the intake would running progressive linkage be advisable?  Being that the only passage between the pods is relatively small compared to other FE intakes it would seem that the rear cylinders would be starved for fuel until the rear carb starts to open.  How is everyone orienting their carbs on their tunnelwedge?

Watching the Robert Pond interview he stated that he normally shifted at 9000+.  That is the stratosphere for the most of us.  It would be nice to know what the bottom end of our FE's might handle - just the rotating assembly.  There are too many valvetrain possibilities out there so let's just figure crank, rods and pistons.  Say stock 390, 427 and 428.  Then add in some common stroker combinations.  Mine is a 427 side oiler block 4.250 bore and 4.125 stroke with 6.700 H beam rods.
If we can get a ballpark figure for the bottom end then there would be no need to spend extra money on the valvetrain to go beyond the limitations of the rest of the engine.

This is probably for our FE vendors or someone with knowledge of Gear Vendors Company.  On their home page there is a tab for applications and after selecting 4,5,6 speed manual transmissions their list comes up.  There is a listing for Toploader 17" tail shaft.  The part number is 189723 with the price as $3195.00.  But it says to contact them before purchase.  I emailed them and told them the application.  They emailed me back and said that they don't make one for this transmission and have no plans to do so in the future.  Well maybe I got a kid who sold underwear before the layoffs.  Then I called them and got the same response and was told that I would have to switch out the main shaft to a 14" before they can help me.  Not happening Batman!  Why would a company publish application information, assign it a part number and not produce the part?  If anybody has an (in) with Gear Vendors I would like an answer to that question.  There were many more Toploaders produced with the long 17" tail shaft.

When in doubt contact the experts right?  Some background info:  Car is a 1968 Mustang with a 427 Genesis originally a C code no power anything.  Now it has 1970 Torino Cobra front discs and 1974 Mercury Montego rear drums ( 10 X 2 1/2") all manual.  The master cylinder is from a 1974 Mustang 2 with a 15/16 bore, manual disc brake.  Best I remember is that the rear drum wheel cylinders are 1 1/8" bore.  Just installed a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve also.  The master has a spongy feel so I need to replace it.  Been told that for the best stopping power the master needs to be the smallest bore possible and the wheel cylinders need to have the largest bore possible.  What would be the best master cylinder to use in this application?

Guys,  Hate to let her go but due to bum back it's a challenge even to wash her.  Anyway, it's a coupe owned since 1973 with a fresh Genesis side oiler 4.250 X 4.125 = 468 CID.  Short block purchased from Doug at Precision Oil Pumps.  Heads are Keith Craft Stage 2 Edelbrocks with Hooker headers.  Blue Thunder 2 X 4 intake with 2 - 750 CFM Quick Fuel carbs from Survival.  Doug's roller rocker setup with Comp Cams solid roller.  Ram clutch with Lakewood shield.  David Kee toploader big in/out in wide ratio.  David Kee 9" 3.50 Traction-Loc 31 spline.  All drivetrain components have less than 5,000 miles but were purchased a few years ago.  Car is only driven to shows and cruise ins and garage kept.  These are only the major things listed as there are too many accessories and features to list here.  I will try and attach pictures but if I can't, go to Greensboro, NC Craigs list to see them.  Like I said I hate to let her go but it needs to go to a good home where someone can take advantage of the work and money spent which is a lot!  If interested please email me at jwilliams16@triad.rr.com or call 336-314-1492.  Asking 35,000 OBO.

Hello all - new to this forum.  I have a '68 Mustang with a Genesis 468 CID with Blue Thunder 2 X 4 intake and BC/BD Holleys.  My question is how can I get enough air to the carbs running a stock hood.  A 2" K&N filter will not do it and that is the tallest filter I can run with the oval air cleaner.  Currently have a 6" filter and Boss 9 scoop which does away with the sleeper look but supplies more than enough air.  There has to be a way to do it with the little space available.  Thanks in advance.  Also kudos to Jay for all his hard work providing information on the FE.