200*F for oil, or water, temps is just fine...no worries.
220*F for oil, or water temps is just fine....but getting up there.
Many choose temps in the 160-180 range and that is not ideal for many reasons...too cool.
But even 235*F is okay for one of these engines.

Not to hijack the thread, but I have read many conflicting opinions on the 160-180 topic.  Lots of people say this is too cool, many others say it's fine and that they've never had an engine wear out prematurely for running temp in that range.  My engine was running in the 210-215 range with a 180 stat in the first 100 miles (90-100f southern summer days), but I altered the grill for better airflow and now it sits happy in 178-182.  When I was in the 215 range, it dieseled badly on shutdown. 

Just curious what your thoughts are on the 160-180 being too cool.

On pulling the engine, I wouldn't bother with that at any time.  However, I would recommend pulling the solid roller lifters at around 8K-10K miles, and either replacing them or getting them rebuilt.  Provided they have the pin oiling feature, and the lash is under control, they should be good for at least that long, but you don't want to take a chance of one of them failing.

Synthetics handle heat a lot better than mineral oils, but even at 230 degrees I don't think you are pushing the envelope too hard.  At Drag Week in 2016 I ran 250 degrees all week, with Valvoline VR1 10W-30.  I changed the oil once during the week just to be cautious, but it looked fine when it came out.  This was with a partially filled Shelby block, and no oil cooler.  I was uncomfortable with it at 250, so I will be adding an oil cooler to the car,  but when that engine came apart after the event it looked brand new inside. 

That is why I am thinking of pulling the engine Jay I think it is less hassle to just pull the engine to check the lifters over doing it in the car and the engine gets regular oil changes and it always looks clean lash has always been good so far I will have to have a look at my notes to see exactly how many miles I have on them I do have a second set of lifters here ready to go.

As for the oil I think I would of been at 250 with out an oil cooler and oil temp is fine at 3000rpm and below for as long a drive as you like even on the hottest of days.

      From here, I can't really comment of the the other products, but if you run it hard, perhaps you might want to consider different valve locks?   

      Scott.

200*F for oil, or water, temps is just fine...no worries.
220*F for oil, or water temps is just fine....but getting up there.
Many choose temps in the 160-180 range and that is not ideal for many reasons...too cool.
But even 235*F is okay for one of these engines.

As long as those temps are under control things are fine.
"Under control" means the temp has been reached but the temp is sustained....not creeping up, or going up, down, up, down, quickly without a peak or sustained temp the engine reaches.

60 weight oil seems excessively heavy.
This is causing a lot more stress on the oil pump driveshaft, and cam gear driving that oil pump.

If your bearing tolerances are correct (depends on parameters of build) you should be able to run a thinner oil with no issues...a 10W/30 for instance.

Switching to a synthetic oil, after break in, is not a bad idea so long as you run an oil with a useful additive package for your needs.....Most synthetics these days are already set for anti-corrosion as well as coating/sticking to metal surfaces to prevent corrosion when the engine sits. Check into the specific oil you intend to use to learn the parameters of that oil formulation.
By the way, those formulations are subject to change every 6 months so check up on that from time to time to know what is in the oil....this stinks because it is effort we should not have to deal with, but it is the realities of engine oil these days.

Concerning your temps with the oil cooler....They do seem a bit high at 230*F while using an oil cooler....Maybe your oil cooler is too small, or not working efficiently.
But then you say you have the solid block so there is less water in the block taking away heat.
Again, as long as temps are under control it sounds fine.

If you are not running a T-stat with your oil cooler I suggest you install one.
With the T-stat you have better control over the oil temps, which serves the engine better.
Set the oil cooler T-stat around 195*F (meaning it bypasses the cooler until temps reach 195*F)

My engine has be in my car now for just over 2 years now and has well over 5000miles but less then 7k on it engine is a solid roller bbm block and heads and intake and it has been flawless. I was thinking of pulling the engine soon and doing a check of lifters and pull a few main and rod caps just to see how everything looks. Am I crazy for thinking about it? when would be a good time to think about it?.

It has had a pretty easy life so far no strip runs just street driving and a skid once and a wile and lots of highway miles

Second half of this post has to do with oil temps and highway driving I have always had a concern about my oil temp when highway driving not really a problem @65mph @3000rpm sits at about 200 might get to 220 on a hot day and 70mph for 30min to an hour. Last weekend I gave the car a bit of a hard run on the way to a local car show ran at 75/80mph for around 30min at 3500 3600rpms engine oil temp hit 230@60/65psi. Oil temp is stable and it came right back down 190 200 as soon as I had to slow down for built up area's 40/50mph speed zones. I do run an oil cooler I am not sure if I should change oil type at the moment I am running Penrite HPR 30 20w/60 https://penriteoil.com.au/products/hpr-30-20w-60-mineral Every oil change has looked great nothing abnormal in the oil filter. Would the BBM block being cast solid below the water plugs be why? everything else is great water temp will only get to 200 on the hottest of days the day before I went to another local event and sat in bumper to bumper traffic for 2 hours to do a 2 lap cruise of the main streets of the town near me with about 1000+ other cars water temp sat at 165 to 180 engine oil sat at 180/190@40/45psi at idle trans temp sat at 180/190 the entire time it was a cooler night 26 deg C. Any thoughts on oils I can't get some of the oils you can get in the USA here in Australia but I thinking of switching to a synthetic oil.

Thoughts? Cheers JB.