Author Topic: Installing modern EFI and whole system wiring in our vintage tin  (Read 1975 times)

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turbohunter

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Since I'm getting to the step of wiring for the mustang I thought I'd start a thread to get some ideas about the whole system from ground zero.
We've pretty much all rewired for carbs but thinking about integrating an EFI harness and computer is a new deal for me and I'd rather not make expensive mistakes (anymore ::) ).
Obviously I could call Ron Francis and have them make something up but I thought you guys might have some good input. Especially Mr. Brown who is doing a whole bunch of EFI goody producing at this moment. If I had my druthers Jay it would be an FE Power deal. :)
I want the engine room as clean as possible so I don't want to hodgepodge it.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


Autoholic

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Re: Installing modern EFI and whole system wiring in our vintage tin
« Reply #1 on: June 01, 2017, 01:29:50 PM »
If you're willing to spend a few grand, Pro M EFI looks old school and is open loop, so it learns as you drive.

http://www.promracing.com/pro-m-efi-engine-management-systems/ford-complete-efi-systems.html
« Last Edit: June 01, 2017, 01:31:37 PM by Autoholic »
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jayb

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Re: Installing modern EFI and whole system wiring in our vintage tin
« Reply #2 on: June 01, 2017, 01:59:17 PM »
Marc, the key is planning.  Make a drawing of the engine compartment from the top, and mark where you are going to have all the EFI goodies that you will need.  This will include the air temp sensor, water temp sensor, throttle position sensor, MAP sensor, IAC if you use one, crank and cam sensors (or distributor), injectors, and coil(s).  Where you mount this stuff will determine how much of the EFI wiring you can hide.  As far as the wiring itself, the universal harnesses that come with the MS3-Pro have 8 feet of untrimmed wires, so you mount the EFI box, hook up the cables, then feed them one by one through a hole or holes through the firewall, to their destination, along the route that you have drawn up in your drawing.  Leave some extra wire on each connection, so that you can bundle them together in cables when you are done, then wrap them with a protective wrap like that Painless Wiring Powerbraid stuff.  When you are finished you will have a few black cables running from the key components in the engine, back through the firewall to the EFI box.  Here's a picture of the plan I made for my Shelby clone:



On my setup I went through the firewall in three discrete places, to hide as much of the wiring as I could.  The top and bottom cables in the picture are basically invisible, hidden behind the fenderwells or the roll cage.  You do see the cables going to the injectors, and also the cable going to the TPS and the ATS.  Also, I mounted the two MAP sensors on the firewall, but they could have easily gone behind the firewall to hide the wiring.  FYI the second MAP sensor is to monitor crankcase vacuum.  Since this is my SOHC I also used two cam sensors, one on each cam.  The cam and crank sensor wiring goes out of the engine bay on the driver's side, then up the roll cage bars and back into the firewall.  Same with the oil temp, oil pressure, and fuel pressure sensors.  Those are all there so that I can log those parameters with the EFI system, while driving down the road. 

Hope that helps you get the picture.  FYI I'm hoping to have an update on my dyno mule this weekend, with all the EFI ignition stuff installed.  There will be more information in that post - Jay
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC