i bet many of us have eaten work because we "assumed" information provided was correct. The springs were installed before the heads went on the car with the custom cam grinder's specification and installed height.

The ARP studs that were supplied from Precision Oil Pumps didn't bottom. I did think to check that. If anyone tells you ARP always gives the best advice with their fasteners I have news for you...
Anyway, Time serts were installed in the place of the helicoils. I don't think this will be an issue in the future.

I have about 335 over the nose. That shouldn't have been an issue with the Edelbrocks. I dumped their roller cam springs and went with what was suggested by the cam manufacturer.

I ran a hi torque factory Ford starter four four years until it failed. I purchased a power master hi torque factory style starter to replace it. The first one had the snout machined incorrectly and made contact with the flywheel. The second unit had the bendix stick and damaged the flywheel ring gear.
I returned the second starter directly to Power Master in Chicago at my cost less than three months later.
They called and asked about the compression of my engine. it's about 10.3:1.  Immediately they blamed the compression ratio as the issue with the starter.
No information on the website about the started being rated for 10:1 and lower. Most OE FE engines are 10.5 or more. Why the hell would you need a high torque starter for an engine with less than 10:1?
They offered no compensation for the bendix damage to the ring gear, labor to drop the transmission or having to change the starter twice and return it to Summit Racing. They now want me to purchase their high dollar mini starter with a credit of 100.00 for the bad bendix unit and pay the difference of 171.00 and return shipping of 25.00.  '
Needless to say their won't be another power master.

If you have original BJ-BK dual quads there is no vacuum port. So that rules that out for those running restored engines. At least externally. Despite filling the baffle in the Le Mans cover with the stainless pad and the reduced internal diameter of the vacuum port that runs into the front factory threaded port I still use oil. It's frustrating and expensive.

PM sent.

Mike: The cost of PPG paint and clear was about 2500.00. The color sanding and buffing was 40 hours. A decent job is 15-20K if it's painted in components and reassembled. I just went through this four years ago with no rust repair or sheet metal work. 
I think many doing actual restoration and not just a spray job are shocked at the cost involved.
Best of luck with your vehicle!

I have an issue as well with my 67 Shelby with the PCV pulling oil into the intake. I packed stainless pot scrubber material from Brillo on top of the baffle in the valve cover. It made a huge difference.