Call them "Special Js".  Watch out for the Kellogg people... 

FWIW - on my SBFs that I want to use a regular water pump, March sells a 6 rib pulley that lets you use a stock 5.0 crank and stock alternator for a serpentine belt. The only problem is it's $$ and shiny.  I also have found belts short enough to run just the crank and alternator on an SBF with an electric pump.  You can put a pulley on any 3G, but you will likely have to make or find a very thin shim or the sheave may rub the case. 

All the hot rods and the 1993 F350 use a 3G.   No problems with bearings spinning to the moon but I try to service them every 24 months.  Had to put a 3G on the 350 DRW because the stocker wouldn't keep the voltage up with all the lights, AC and accessories at night.  I had to put a 90A breaker between the 3G and the battery because of current draw.  Works good now, dash gauge is rock steady pulling home after dark.

Now all that, and on the dragster with a big 7AL-3 ignition, Meziere 30 GPH pump, big 16" high power fan, trans brake, digital display, etc - it runs a bitty 50A no-name alternator and holds the system 13+V no problem.  I cut down a stocker pulley set to fit the SFI balancer and that little thing has to be 12,000+ RPM on the 1-2 shift.  $150 at a local alternator shop.

The yard I go to here has a storage container that is nothing but alternators.  100s.  So I just sort through and fine one I like, $45. 

NHRA has had an exemption from the normal rules that required a roll bar between 10.00 to 11.49 seconds, along with the required SFI jacket, etc. in place for 2008 and newer production cars that are 100% stock for quite a few years now.

Same for IHRA.  I know NHRA allows, but try finding it in the rule book - other than helmet and the SFI 3.2A/1 jacket requirement.  Also, bad advice - burn the DRs until rubber drips off?  Not - wait, do because then you'll blow the tires off and I'll get an easy win.     This will be a good one for the sanctioning bodies - the pure layout restricts the car to NoBox events and locks it out of a bunch of pure footbrake races around the country.  Still a lot of big $$$$ events around here that don't allow a t-brake and/or two step.  It is legal in NoBox brackets in all divisions AFAIK.

OK, listened to the rest - as above, not sure what the xHRAs are going to do with that - lots of things change once you cross 135 MPH.   

Per HotRod:
"Let’s repeat that. The Dodge Demon is NOT “banned” from dragstrips. It just has to follow the same rules that any other 9-second car needs to follow. That means that if you want to make multiple runs or run in competition with a Demon in race tune, you’re going to need to put a cage in it—not a harness bar, not a roll bar, but a full ‘cage, which includes door bars. This would make the car less than comfortable as a street driver, but not impossible. If you don’t want to do that, you can still run 9s at the dragstrip, you’ll just have to go to a new dragstrip whenever the old one figures out your game and kicks you off track."

Add in SFI 3.2A/5 multi-layer clothes and the Level 6 license. 

Why I use an automatic and either just footbrake or come off the two step/trans brake.  Pre-stage @ 2000, bump in to stage, swap feet on 3.  Or stage, push button, flat foot on #2 bulb, release button on 3rd.  Off you go.  Line lock in the door car for burnout only.  No front brakes in the rail, just hammer and spin until it bites then lift.

Two step + t-brake legal in all NoBox classes in Div. 4 IHRA and NHRA.  Still many footbrake races in these parts that don't allow either or both.  I may try switching the dragster over to organic rear pads so I can stage it on the footbrake.  Hard pads good for 150 MPH stops don't hold well with even a little throttle on a high stall converter.

17,689Km's to be exact.

Place your crankshafts in the overhead bin and return your tray tables to the upright position as we prepare for takeoff.

Do not remove material from the rods....you will lose bearing crush.

Agree - I haven't had time to really go over my rod bores with a bore gauge yet so I'm hoping there is material there within spec.  If not, then might have to ship my crank to Barry and get his guy to fix it.  I just don't need the parts for a build right now, so it's not urgent.  That and the dragster build used up about two years of "hot rod money" in 6 months.  But it's still money tied up in engine parts that can't be used so it bugs the !@#$ out of me.