Author Topic: Galaxie/TKO  (Read 43616 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

65er

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 231
    • View Profile
Re: Galaxie/TKO
« Reply #15 on: November 18, 2012, 10:00:29 PM »
I've got manual brakes and would prefer to not have a super light feeling clutch pedal so I'll leave the spring out.  You can see that spring  (C6AZ-7535-A) in the pics Wreckless Warren posted here (not my car)... http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182/thread/1272150516/1272250266/Bellhousing+question+for+a+67+galaxie.+auto+to+stick+swap.


 Very good to know about that gap, thanks for the heads up on that.   I really don't want to cut my bell housing though.  The starter will be out anyway so I'll just work through there.
-Wade

458" Blair Partick stroker/TKO 600 .64 OD/3.89 gears

drdano

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 537
    • View Profile
Re: Galaxie/TKO
« Reply #16 on: November 19, 2012, 10:14:55 AM »
Thats an interesting assist spring...non-adjustable?  Odd.  The 60-62 units have a monster assist spring that sits up under the dash that you can tighten up an eyelet and adjust the amount of assist you want.  The diaphram clutch isn't going to be super mushy like a modern car hydraulic clutch, you'll still feel it but it wont be like driving an old dump truck.

WRT not wanting to cut your bellhousing, totally understandable.  It is a chore on my car to remove the starter each time you have to adjust the clutch, otherwise I would still do it that way.  Adding an access hole just removed that part of the chore.  I put two 1/2" holes slightly overlapping and then filed the remaining material out to make a nice rounded slot. 

65er

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 231
    • View Profile
Re: Galaxie/TKO
« Reply #17 on: November 20, 2012, 12:31:01 AM »
More progress!  Tonight I swapped the 4.30 gears onto the 3rd member I bought last week.  First time doing that for me.  Man, that's quite a job, like to wore me out!  I think I got it OK though.  I figure it will probably howl a bit being used gears and set up by a first timer but hopefully it will at least last a month or two so I can see how the car feels with 4.30's.  I should have bought some marking grease but kept forgetting so I used some red spray dykem we had hanging around the shop.  The backlash is set at .007


-Wade

458" Blair Partick stroker/TKO 600 .64 OD/3.89 gears

BruceS

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 738
    • View Profile
Re: Galaxie/TKO
« Reply #18 on: November 20, 2012, 11:11:24 AM »
65er,
Thanks again for the excellent posts.  Good education on clutch linkages and how to get 'em hooked up.  Hope u keep that cnc program for the bell housing z-bar bracket  :). Like some of the other posts, my old '67 Mustang GT 390 had a big assist spring under the dash... The way i found that out was, i disconnected it and got an immediate surprise when the clutch pedal effort increased big time!  Of course that was with the stock clutch.  Didn't know your assist spring config existed.  Will be interested to know if the 4:30 rear end gears howl but looks like you got a good pattern. 
66 Fairlane 500, 347-4V SB stroker, C4
63 Galaxie 500 fastback, 482 SO 4V, Cruise-O-Matic

65er

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 231
    • View Profile
Re: Galaxie/TKO
« Reply #19 on: November 22, 2012, 11:20:53 AM »
Thanks Bruce, and happy thanksgiving man! 

Of course those CNC programs (Mastercam file really, same difference) don't take up a lotta space and I never delete them.  My bell housing bracket wasn't a perfect fit so I ended up doing some grinding on it and I'll modify my CAD file for a proper fit in case I make more of those brackets.


Yesterday we worked 6:00-2:00 at the shop so everybody could get out and start their holiday a bit early.  Of course I took advantage of that deal and pulled the car in to the shop early.  Not everybody was able to wrap up their stuff right at two so I ended up not really tearing into things until around 3:00.  By 11:00 I was pretty wiped out but got a good start.  No pictures for now but I got the old tranny and linkage out, that was quite the milestone for the first day on the project I think, especially being on Wednesday.  I also got the new pedals in including the gas pedal with the stainless trim and the parking brake cover also with the stainless trim.  The trim is crazy expensive for the clutch and brake pedal so I kept the fairly worn stuff that was on those pedals but I did replace the rubber on them so the pedal group is looking  like a nice fresh matching set.  I also got the frame side of e Z-bar mount installed and the first piece of linkage attached to the clutch pedal.

Oh yeah! I also was able to pull the clutch fork back and check my clutch disk clearance and I made a little rigging standard to show where the fork throw needs to start and end.  After getting the fork travel worked out, measured and recorded, I tore down the mockup and brought all the pieces over to the car work area.  I pulled the stock shifter and installed the Steeda Tri-ax shifter rotated 180 degrees to use the forward position.  Also had to turn the shifter handle, retaining ring and springs back around so essentially it's just the shifter base or mounting flange that's rotated. I was able to run the shifter through all the gears per the installation instructions and I got the shifter stops set with the proper clearance.  The only thing left to pull apart is the flex plate (which isn't dirty!) and I can start putting the new stuff in. Stuff in... stuffing!  Ok I'm still a bit punchy from last night, lol  Also feeling kind of beat up since I have a couple bruises from reaching down past the master cylinder and brake lines to remove the auto trans linkage.  I'm fairly scraped up too, most of which was self-inflicted from scrubbing the grime off.  Didn't want to go over to my buddies place all nasty looking so I got after the cleaning job with the red scotchbrite pad and stiff nail brush to remove a fair amount of skin.  My elbows especially feel hot from the abrasions but hey, they're nice and clean  ;)



« Last Edit: November 22, 2012, 11:40:49 AM by 65er »
-Wade

458" Blair Partick stroker/TKO 600 .64 OD/3.89 gears

My427stang

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3941
    • View Profile
Re: Galaxie/TKO
« Reply #20 on: November 22, 2012, 11:43:12 AM »
Watch closely for flywheel bolt clearance, it is VERY common for aftermarket flywheel bolts to hit the block.  You can grind them down or I believe the aftermarket flex plate bolts work.

Its easy to see, but you have to look up there. 
---------------------------------
Ross
Bullock's Power Service, LLC
- 70 Fastback Mustang, 489 cid FE, Victor, SEFI, Erson SFT cam, TKO-600 5 speed, 4.11 9 inch.
- 71 F100 shortbed 4x4, 461 cid FE, headers, Victor Pro-flo EFI, Comp Custom HFT cam, 3.50 9 inch

65er

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 231
    • View Profile
Re: Galaxie/TKO
« Reply #21 on: November 24, 2012, 01:09:07 AM »
  I knew I shouldn't have gone over to my friends hose for turkey day, I knew it!  Between an hour of scrubbing the dirt off myself on Wednesday so I didn't look like a pig while I was out, the turkey and naps and general hanging around I never got around to touching the car on Thursday.

So today I got around to checking the flywheel bolts and they stuck through the crank flange by about .050 so I ground them back about .050 to sit nice and flush.
Also did a bunch of other stuff and I'd say this turned out more of a custom fab type job than a drop in despite my best efforts to sort everything out before tearing it apart.

 I did put in a good 16 hours today though and have succeeded in installing the rare dual-shift option...


The shifter on the floor actually works  ;)

Tomorrow I get to sort out and fab my tranny crossmember, clutch linkage and parking brake cable.   That clutch linkage is a mess. The Z-bar is nice and solid and rotates freely but there's no way I'll be able to use the normal pushrod to the clutch fork.  The bottom leg of the Z is nearly at the same position as the clutch fork but about an inch higher and half inch farther from the car center line.  I'm going to have to make either a Y-rod or bellcrank setup that will also attach to the new crossmember. The parking brake (e-brake?) cable also ran through the tranny crossmember and had some bracketry that I'll have to duplicate since the old crossmember doesn't have a chance of working with the new tranny.  Gonna be another long day...
-Wade

458" Blair Partick stroker/TKO 600 .64 OD/3.89 gears

falcon428

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 101
    • View Profile
Re: Galaxie/TKO
« Reply #22 on: November 25, 2012, 07:41:43 AM »
How is your project coming along?  If I were closer I would come by and help.  Doing nothing but cleaning house today.  I would much rather work on an old car than clean house. 
Hope everything is going well!
'65 Mercury Comet w/ Pond Alum. 427, C6
'61 Ford Starliner w/ 352, C6
'68 Falcon w/ ProCharged FE, Lenco 5sp
'67 Country Sedan SW
'62 Falcon awaiting turbocoupe motor & tranny
'40 Ford Tudor Sedan all original

65er

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 231
    • View Profile
Re: Galaxie/TKO
« Reply #23 on: November 25, 2012, 11:14:00 AM »
I fabbed and installed a crossmember from some steel L-angle and flat stock for the tranny, turned out to be no big deal. Only took maybe an hour and a half. Then I installed the starter and got to work on the clutch linkage.  That linkage WORE ME OUT.  The nice engine side pivot bracket for the Z-bar had the bar a little too low and a little to far forward so I cut it and bolted it together with a spacer.  No so pretty now but the Z-bar is in the right place and it's still plenty solid...



Unfortunately this made my Z-bar too far out of line to work with the standard pushrod to the clutch fork.  If I had put it in there it would have been at about a 45 degree angle pushing the fork down and toward the car center line instead of pushing it straight back.  After checking the throws carefully against my rigging tool, I decided the throws were all right on the money and I built a Y-link to tie the Z-bar and fork together.  The Y setup has a rod that pulls on the fork and slides back and forth through the tranny crossmember, and another rod tied to it that the Z-bar pushes on.  The fork side link has a big C-clamp like feature the holds a threaded bullet for clutch fork depression and the main rod screws all the way through to rest very close to the back side of the fork.  Because of the back side rod, the bullet can't fall out of the fork and I can also use a spring anywhere on the Y-rod to maintain throwout bearing to pressure place clearance when not pushing the clutch pedal.  Sounds simple, right?  Too bad it too me most of the whole day to invent and build that one!  Lots or trips under the car, back out, back under etc.  It came out nice though and the clutch pedal feels great.

I don't know if you can see how this is all set up but here are some pics of the Y-link setup.

Need a couple jam nuts on here.  You can see the end of the clutch fork sticking through the C-clamp and the piece at the bottom of the picture.   Also you can't really see it because of the light but the threaded rod is up against the back of the fork here.


Bar slides through the crossmember.  Not very elegant but it seems to work smooth and quiet. This is really just an alignment feature, there's no real vertical or sideways pressure on the rod.  The nut between the two rods here is also a jam nut.  The screw that ties the rods together threads through the longer rod.  Looks kind of funny but it's solid. Remember there's only a couple hundred pounds of pressure on that screw and the rods just move a tiny bit against each other. Almost nothing.


Also I did manage to put the new driveshaft in place but the old yoke takes a smaller U-joint than the one on the driveshaft.  The new chunk has the right yoke and since the driveshaft was balanced with the large u-joint installed I don't want to take it out.  The new rear chunk has to go in today.  Also I hope to replace the speedo cable with the new cable and adapter, hook up the exhaust and work out the details of the E-brake cable system.  It won't be complete, but I should at least be able to take a test-drive today.
-Wade

458" Blair Partick stroker/TKO 600 .64 OD/3.89 gears

fetorino

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 150
  • Tunnelport Cobra
    • View Profile
Re: Galaxie/TKO
« Reply #24 on: November 25, 2012, 05:51:57 PM »




 It won't be complete, but I should at least be able to take a test-drive today.

Is this on the road yet ;)

The more I watch you fab the clutch linkage the more I'm glad Bruce at Modern driveline has engineered a nice hydro linkage for may Fords including a 69 Torino.

My427stang

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3941
    • View Profile
Re: Galaxie/TKO
« Reply #25 on: November 25, 2012, 05:56:18 PM »
Can't wait to hear the results of the test drive!
---------------------------------
Ross
Bullock's Power Service, LLC
- 70 Fastback Mustang, 489 cid FE, Victor, SEFI, Erson SFT cam, TKO-600 5 speed, 4.11 9 inch.
- 71 F100 shortbed 4x4, 461 cid FE, headers, Victor Pro-flo EFI, Comp Custom HFT cam, 3.50 9 inch

AlanCasida

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1099
    • View Profile
Re: Galaxie/TKO
« Reply #26 on: November 25, 2012, 08:49:07 PM »
I have to say that clutch linkage looks a little scary to me. I think a lot of your problems would be solved if you get the correct throwout fork(as I mentioned on the FE Forum). To each his own though.

65er

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 231
    • View Profile
Re: Galaxie/TKO
« Reply #27 on: November 25, 2012, 11:00:46 PM »
I have to say that clutch linkage looks a little scary to me. I think a lot of your problems would be solved if you get the correct throwout fork(as I mentioned on the FE Forum). To each his own though.

I must have missed that Alan, or couldn't see the difference at the time.  Is there another fork to be used with the Quicktime Bellhousing?


I have the wheels on the floor, so I can back it out and clean the place up.  Need to finish up the E-brake cables and then I can take it for a test drive.  Wow am I beat...

-Wade

458" Blair Partick stroker/TKO 600 .64 OD/3.89 gears

65er

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 231
    • View Profile
Re: Galaxie/TKO
« Reply #28 on: November 25, 2012, 11:02:51 PM »
The more I watch you fab the clutch linkage the more I'm glad Bruce at Modern driveline has engineered a nice hydro linkage for may Fords including a 69 Torino.

If I had to do it over I would go hydraulic. Depending on what that other fork is that Alan mentioned.  Now I'm wishing I had looked into that.
-Wade

458" Blair Partick stroker/TKO 600 .64 OD/3.89 gears

AlanCasida

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1099
    • View Profile
Re: Galaxie/TKO
« Reply #29 on: November 25, 2012, 11:06:41 PM »
Here is the correct clutch fork for a 65-67 Galaxie. As far as I know no one reproduces it. It gives you a lot more distance from the z-bar. It worked fine on my FE Lakewood bellhousing and it is now working fine on my Quicktime 460 bellhousing with a TKO 600 behind it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/65-FORD-GALAXIE-CLUTCH-RELEASE-FORK-1965-352-390-FoMoCo-LTD-XL-FE-/321004074985?hash=item4abd5577e9&item=321004074985&pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr