FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: Skeeter65 on August 13, 2023, 04:48:58 PM
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What’s the preferred solvent or soap to clean a machined block prior to assembly?
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I have been using Tide liquid laundry detergent with fairly hot water, and use a toilet brush on the cylinder walls, and main bearing bores, with a toothbrush in the lifter bores. Followed by a hot water rinse and blow dry to remove all the water, and then spray everything down with WD 40 to prevent rust. If it will be a while before assembly, I will rub ATF on the machined surfaces.
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I have been using Tide liquid laundry detergent with fairly hot water, and use a toilet brush on the cylinder walls, and main bearing bores, with a toothbrush in the lifter bores. Followed by a hot water rinse and blow dry to remove all the water, and then spray everything down with WD 40 to prevent rust. If it will be a while before assembly, I will rub ATF on the machined surfaces.
Agree, that's what I used to do. But 1st, I'd take a paper towel with ATF and wipe down each cylinder bore. Amazing when looking at the used towel (takes a roll to do it right) how much grey iron comes off. Then, do what Rory said.
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https://youtu.be/qMCCW3uXJis
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I swab the cylinders with white rags and motor oil. It usually takes several rags to get to the point that the rags are not gray. I spray the machined surfaces with a rust preventive and paint everything else.
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Do all your scubbin' and brushin' with laundry or dish detergent. Those work good at lifting oils and machining grit. Blow it dry, and if not beginning the assembly, then begin wiping it down with ATF because the ATF is a pretty good solvent and will help get that last bit of grit out, and will coat the surfaces from rusting. I do the wipedown of the machined surfaces and anything inside the engine with lint-free cloths. Don't use paper towels or regular rags. Those are great for mopping up spilled bear but not good at clean engine assembly. They deposit fibers on everything they touch. Lint-free cloths are not the budget solution for someone used to working with paper towels, but they don't cost all that much and they can be washed and reused.
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Thanks for all the suggestions guys 👍
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I just did a 390 and I hung it up, from the front and used my pressure washer, after spraying it with industrial degreaser and letting it set a 1/2 hr.
Doing it that way, I could get the water jackets, and oil galleries a final time. I then blew it down with air and after dried completely, I mixed ATF and Stoddard solvent at 4/1 and sprayed it down with a siphon type solvent gun. That way I could also get all the galleries lubed.
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My go to, favorite, engine and parts cleaner is Dawn dish soap mixed to suit the needs of the job.
Get some brushes that will allow easy brushing access to all ports, channels and areas......but don't get cheap brushes because they almost always lose bristles.
Scrub, rinse....and rinse well....more....still more.....now its rinsed, dry, oil treat.
This is a messy job, but easy to do.
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I pressure wash every one and put pressure through every galley using water with whatever soap concoction I have laying around. Usuallydish soap or car wash.
During this, I use an engine brush set with soapy water
Then I spray and wipe with WD40 to keep from rusting, and you'd be amazed how much durt comes off the honed cylinders and a rifle cleaning tool to to the oil galleys with lacquer thinner at the end.
After that, I oil all the things I'd be afraid of getting rusty, but my garage is air conditioned and dry, so a bit overkill but makes me feel better
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I do the same. Liquid dish soap, Tied, car soap… In hot water and I use a toilet brush in the cylinders. Just like Ross, pressure wash all the oil galleys, coolant passages. Use compressed air to dry it.
Than for the cylinder bores. I use lent free towels, break clean. Scrub them out a few times with that. Then I’ll use a light penetrating oil and a let free cloth a couple more times. You will be shocked on how much grit comes out of the cylinder walls after being at the machine shop. Crazy!!!
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...car soap… ...
All of that, but not car soap. It's formulated to not take the wax off your car and has very mild detergents. It's not going to do diddly with any oils.
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does de burring help much,would you want to do that first if it has not been done already.