Jay, awesome motor and glad to see the results from intake port length changes.

Not sure how easy it would be to measure on the motor, but could you do some before and after calcs based on the old Ramcharger's wave tuning math?

L = 80500 / N            
            
L = duct length (inches) from Plenum ( the first reflection point) to the back of the intake valve.            
N = Engine RPM for maximum tuning effect

Solve for N before and after and see which one was closer to where you made power?  Needless to say the shorter stacks did well so it should be closer, but it would be interesting to see what the numbers came out to be.  For an IR manifold L should be from the valve to the end of the stack      

      

I personally wouldn't run any more than a 294S with only 418 cid and 10:1, and even that is a bit less compression than I'd like to see.  FWIW I run just a bit less cam with 10.7:1 compression and it'll run on anything.

You can even go less cam than that, but as you noted,  I don't think you'd get the top end charge you'll want to see.

Not Jay but a SFT can be absolutely reliable.

I ran a 300 adv/ 250 @ .050 Isky in my 427 for years and the current Erson has been in since 2006, driven everywhere

Even with standard lifters, make sure nothing hits, run good oil, and keep idle up high enough to throw some oil to the lobes.  All those things should be even easier with the Schubeks

As far as 294 vs 306, I ran a 306 in a 462 Rat Chevy and although it made a ton of power up top, I think it was a little too much cam for the street.  The FE isnt a direct comparison to a big headed Rat, but unless you are running a bunch of compression, I'd lean toward the 294

A quick WAG - The 306 would probably need 11.7:1 compression or more, the 294 would be happy around 11:1

Good stuff Jay

First, let me ask you to break the calculator back out, as an MBA and Strategic Intelligence grad, I'll have to lean on you to tell me how to mathematically get to the answer to my question

So, if you look at what you calculated, could you back it into a "resistance to change" calculation?

What I am trying to say is if you had a an engine at 450 ft lb at a steady 2000 RPM with one flywheel, is there enough information to calculate how much difference in torque the motor would have to provide to keep one or the other flywheel at 2000 rpm with an increase in load? 

I assume there would be time and load variables in there too, because once the inertia is "eaten up" the motor would have to work harder to keep the wheel spinning.

Thanks

Jay, be sure to spray any metallic paint at the pressure and viscosity identified by the manufacturer and probably the MOST important thing is make sure the paint is mixed well in the can.  You wouldn't believe how much a well-shaken can "changed colors" on me when I was a kid and "knew better than my dad"  It didn't take long for me to learn that the metallics needed to be carefully mixed

I used to do a lot of insurance work and spraying silvers and other mostly metallic paints can look very different with just a pressure or tip change on the gun, not as critical for a complete, but when blending a panel you want it as close as it can be.  Silvers can get much more "silver" and these light blues and light greens act very much like silver as well.

Light blues also tend to be a little transparent as others have noted, but certainly the difference between your car and the striped stocker are more than just primer and pressure.  I would be amazed if your car darkened to match the stick though just with a few more coats.  My guess is your car was a bench mix, or some other factory color from a different vehicle make or model.

Also, I have found those spectrometers to be very very close if the guy is good at using them. Not sure what happened for yours.

If you really want to shoot the car in the color you want, maybe you should prep some test panels, (tape an old door or hood into 4 panels and buy 4 pints of colors you are on the fence with) clear the whole panel if you are using b/c then decide on a color

Awesome Jay

Get to slotting those holes Kerry  

Failure to do so only delays it until later, after the first exhaust leak