My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!

[cobracammer]

Small fans supposedly have a CFM rating of 1250.  Unsure if this will be enough, but I am praying now that the engine has been rebuilt correctly and the headers covered (and the HUGE Vacuum leak has been handled....  that the engine won't be running as hot as it was my last go around.  There is a ton of room in front of the radiator for fresh air....  and the space between the bottom of the radiator and the tip of the bottom of the front bumper has a large plastic skid sheet that closes it off from the ground.  This funnels fresh air in when the car is moving as well as sitting still with the fans on.

Fingers crossed LOL

Next step is to hook up the throttle bodies and throttle linkage.  I am not going to hook up the fuel line until I have a chance to install the battery.  I want to use the fuel pumps to pump the fuel tanks dry (into gas jugs), and then I can add fresh fuel.

[cobracammer]

OK, have the measurements from the 2 small Spal fans (Straight blade) that came with my aluminum shroud:

Fan, Spal, Electric, Single, 11.00 in. Diameter, 808 cfm, 12 V, Pusher, Black Plastic Shroud, Each

Don't know why they are advertised on "protuninglabs.com" as 13" fans that pull 1250 CFM... but they are actually 11" fans that together pull 1616 CFM's

I found replacements (to my replacements that were too big) on Summit:

Fan, Spal, Electric, Single, 11.00 in. Diameter, 844 cfm, 12 V, Puller, Black Plastic Shroud, Each

These would fit exactly the same as the ones on there now, but be S blades and Pull a total of 1688 CFM's

In the end, would an extra 72 CFM's be worth another $200.00

[My427stang]

I personally think any combination listed won't be enough

I like to stay in the thousands of cfm, and as crazy as it may sound, would like to see 4000+ if possible in a tight engine compartment (lack of exit airflow) and a warm environment, even more if using A/C.

Is there any way to run a big fixed blade Flexalite? 

[cobracammer]

Hi Ross.  The short answer?  No.  Even if I move the radiator forward the 1 inch that's possible, its still not enough room (The OEM fan was one of those large flaxalite fans).  The only option would be to put the biggest most powerful fan I can find on the front of the radiator and try and push air through..... Which from what I read is 25% less efficient than Puller fans.  So then I find myself subtracting 25% efficiency for any pusher fan I can find that will fit the dimensions of the radiator. (Plus, I lose the added benefit of the shroud if using a pusher)



Possible winter driver only?  HAHAHA

[cobracammer]

Another quick night in the garage ( updating this post on my phone).  Pulled the plug on the vacuum port on the back of the intake manifold ( the infamous vacuum port) and put in a threaded hose barb with thread sealer.  I then reconnected the vacuum assist brake line to this barb.

I then installed the 2 efi FAST throttle bodies as well as the throttle linkage.  I reinstalled the fuel return line to the throttle body (That runs to the fuel pressure regulator), but left the fuel supply line off ( for future draining).  Finally reinstalled the air cleaner and stopped for the night.  Still heading in the right direction.

Update:

OK EFI system is connected.  I purchased 2 more "electrical buss strips" for all of the add on's.  There is about 5 or so separate power lines running to the battery, and it looks very messy.  I purchased a buss strip so I can run each power wire to a dedicated screw on the strip.  The other buss strip will be used for the switched power/ dimmer power for each gauge.  I was incorrect about the number of gauges I have.  There are only 3.  Oil temperature (Will plug the sensor into the front port in the oil pan), Coolant temp (sensor is in the top of the intake manifold), and Oil pressure (Sensor will be screwed into the top of the oil filter adapter).

Also this weekend I added hydraulic fluid to the master cylinder (which feeds the brakes and the Clutch).  instead of crawling under the car and bleeding it through the bleed line on the transmission, I used a "mightyvac" hand pump with a custom fitting to plug into the top of the reservoir.  There was a lot of air!  It took about 20-30 times of bringing the vacuum pressure up to 20 and then watching as air bubbles out of the tube.  toward the end, I pumped the vacuum up to 20, and then just held the clutch line down.  You could hear the fluid bubble in and the air being sucked out.  Wanted to get the fluid in so the o rings in the throw out bearing stayed lubricated.  Also, no leaks which is a good thing 

[cobracammer]

A little sad that I am just now thinking this....... But could I not keep the 2 small Spal fans with the aluminum shroud pulling air.....  I can have them both tied into the toggle in the car so they run constantly when the car is on........  (Wait for it)

And then a LARGE S blade Pusher fan on the front of the radiator ties into the FAST EFI relay?

This was the 2 smaller fans run always, but the bigger one kicks on only when the EFI pre-set temperature is reached?  I wasn't sure if this was totally logical since the aluminum shroud holding the 2 smaller fans would block some of the air flow?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spu-ix-30102048/overview/

Thoughts?  This would be a super easy fix I think.......3 fans total?

[Drew Pojedinec]

If it makes you feel better, I live in the same area as you climate wise.
I run two Flex a lit 112's

1105cfm each, each pulls 8 amps.
I have them mounted as pushers and they do the job (assuming everything else is in good condition).
It's marginal, but it works.

When cruising they are just peachy, when in long term traffic the temps can pop to 210.
Someday I'll get a better radiator and bigger fans, but this *can* function as the minimum for air movement.

[cobracammer]

Thanks Drew.  I might do it.  I have almost NO room at all in the engine compartment, but like a foot and a half of space in front of the radiator!  WASTED.  would take nothing to drop a fan on the front, so I may give it a try with the 3 smaller straight blade spals and the 3 row radiator.....  see how it does, and if not, connect a bigger pusher to the relay and the smaller ones to the toggle.

Thanks.  Good to hear from someone in similar climate (HOT).  93 degrees today and supposed to be 97 this upcoming week  LOL

[cobracammer]

Not a huge post.  I was able to replace the OEM sender for coolant temp as well as the sender for oil pressure.  The new senders came with my gauges so I actually get numeric readings.  The only one I couldnt install was the oil temp sender.  I want to utilize the front of the oil pan.  It has a seperate magnetic plug, but the 2 brass adapters that came with the sender do not fit the plug hole.  Will have to take the plugwith me to home depot or Napa to find the appropriate size brass adapter. 

In other news, i was doodeling in the garage this weekend, and something caught my eye.  The drivers rear wheel stick out further than the passanger.  Maybe 1/4 to 1/2 "?  Did some research and All Mustangs, Saleens and even Shelbys have this issue!  Came from the factory like this!  WTH?  Lol  Inter-webs say it hurts nothing, and that you really only see it with wide tires..... Which Saleens and Shelbys have!  Anyway, it kind of bothers me, so before i let it down, I ordered an adjustable Panhard Bar to pull it in.  Best to do it now.

[jayb]

I've run three fans before, usually two pushers and one puller.  No reason you can't run an extra pusher, it sure can't hurt - Jay

[My427stang]

I actually have two fans behind my a/c condenser and in front of my radiator.  They are hidden, but turn on by temp as a backup, or when the a/c is on.

I rarely ever hear them come on in Nebraska, but when living in Southern VA and in Las Vegas NV, they'd turn on all the time in traffic

[cobracammer]

Thanks Guys.  I went ahead and purchased the Spal "S" blade 16" pusher.  Its rated at almost 2000 CFM's, and in conjunction with the 1600 CFM Puller fans, I am feeling a little better.  I will have the Pusher 16" connected to the relay through the EFI computer.  It will kick on at a predetermined temp.  The puller fans will just run constantly through the toggle switch.

I also managed to track down an adapter for the oil temp sender.  The sender has 1/8" -27 NPT, but the Oil Pan plug was not NPT.  It was 1/2-20 (which was hard to find).  I managed to track one down through Speedway motors that works in a brake system. That will complete my Sender install and I can then run the wires through the firewall through an unused OEM firewall plug by the battery to the gauges.

We are almost there. I can smell it!

[cobracammer]

Went out to the garage last night to look (sadly) at the wiring.  What I really want to do it to put the FAST EFI computer in the car (by way of a firewall plug).  Unfortunately all of the available plugs are either too small, or to far away to reach.  I spend a few minutes on Google, and found an article on Hotrod magazine (I believe) where they actually said how big a hole and grommet they used on a 602's Camaro to run the FAST computer into the Glove Compartment.  Hole needs to be 1-3/8", and that will be sufficient to pass the plug through.  There is an unused oval shaped plug on the firewall in the perfect place, so I am going to drill right over that hole, and pop in a firewall plug to pass it through.  Having that computer in the car will make me feel tons better.  Firewall grommets are already on their way.

I also would like to do the same thing with the MSD 6A Ignition box which is also sitting loosely by the master cylinder.  The childish part of me wants to leave all as is and get out and enjoy it, but the adult in me wants to take my time after all of this..........  and do the last few items correctly  LOL  Same old story I guess.

Update:

OK last night I went back in the garage (that desperately needs a fan or some sort of ventilation!  LOL).  I wanted to tackle the wiring or at the very least get a start on it.  I started by scouting out a location for my mini buss bar.  I wanted to make it close enough that all of the auxiliary power wires would reach it, but far enough away so that the wiring wasn't all bird nested in one area.  I chose the side of the strut tower (facing the front of the car).  This will allow me to run my jumper power wire to the battery, and also allow me to organize and hide a lot of the wiring.  To give you an idea, there were 9 auxiliary power wires running to the battery!!!  LOL.  Last night I managed to move 5 of them to the mini buss bar before calling it a night, but the remaining ones on the battery are the MSD Ignition box, the Power wire for the FAST efi, and one power wire for each fuel pump (so 2 power wires there).  I think I can move the fuel pump power feeds to the buss bar, and then just have the FAST efi power wire (which has to be directly on the battery per the instructions) and the MSD ignition box.

With this completed, the harness for the FAST efi computer was free!!!  I can now run it through the hole/grommet I will make and place it behind the glove box in the car.  I also want to run the MSD ignition box into the car but I am unsure if I can use the same grommet hole?  would the wiring create electrical interference to the efi computer wires if they were run through the same grommet? 

Also, I have a 12V switched source I am using for the EFI computer.  Do you think I can use the other mini buss bar to run a few leads to the 12V switched?  I can run from the fuse box (12V switched) to the mini Buss bar, and then from the buss bar to the computer, oil temp gauge, oil pressure gauge, and the coolant temp gauge.  I think this would work well since its only switched power, but I wanted to ask incase I am forgetting anything.  That would be MUCH better than pulling the dash to access the radio switched wire and dimmer wire (which is suggested on other Mustang forums when adding aftermarket gauges.  LOL

[newfalconowner]

i have my Fast ECU on the left side kick panel with wiring running up the rocker panel trim to my battery (its in the trunk), and my MSD box under the passenger side glove box with the power wire running down the right rocker under the door trim. Fast said to separate the power wire from other electronics or it will get feedback. I use plastic spiral wrap to cover the wires. just thought that would help in some small way

[cobracammer]

OK, thanks.  To be safe, I will try and run them through different grommets as far apart as I can.