FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: Joe M on July 30, 2018, 09:48:56 PM
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Hi everyone. I'm going to replace the 428 CJ engine in my 68 Mustang with a new rebuild. Engine's been in the car since 1986 and it's getting a little tired. I pulled one of my CJ engine blocks from under the bench and am going over it to make sure it's sound. I want a nice, strong street engine that will run on pump gas. A stump puller. I'm thinking of +.030" overbore, a Scat 4.250 crank. I'm thinking a hydraulic flat tappet cam. Any recommendations for a cam? Would Edelbrock heads be a good choice? I have a set of FPP tri y headers. Would they be compatible with this combination? Any and all suggestions are appreciated. Thank you!
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Best to source the heads before the cam, IMO. I'd run BBM/Survival/TFS for a 462ci combo like you're spec'ing as the larger displacement will like the better flowing heads.
Just as a ballpark, a hydraulic flat tappet in the 235* and .550" area would be about minimum to feed a 462 and would definitely be stout down low, especially in a relatively light mustang.
The TriYs would be ok for this combo
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There's more upfront cost with a hydraulic roller, but probably more power to be found and less worries about wiped lobes that comes with a traditional flat tappet camshaft. I've converted all my FEs to either solid roller or hydraulic roller with no regrets.
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There's more upfront cost with a hydraulic roller, but probably more power to be found and less worries about wiped lobes that comes with a traditional flat tappet camshaft. I've converted all my FEs to either solid roller or hydraulic roller with no regrets.
X2. Install and start. I'll let a build sit until I can put a roller in it, rather than run a flat tappet. The two motors here run rollers and I've already save the cost of the cam by not replacing parts after going through both a couple of times for preventative maintenance or corrections.
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As far as the solid rollers how many miles do you get out of them although I only have 1500 miles in 3 years. Do you mostly just race or are any of these street cars. He did get 30 years out of his last build.
Seriously how often would you check them or you don’t until you maybe hear a little something, I did ask Barry about a solid roller and he thought for a street car it might not be the greatest idea.
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I solved the fear of breaking in a new cam by using a service offered by Cam Research in Colorado. Send them any brand new cam and they'll break it in for you. Install it and start the engine. No problems. I don't know why more guys don't do this. I've done two cams with their service in two of my FE's and one of my sons did a cam for his 408 stroker small block. We've had no problems in years of driving my cars and his is a strip only Thunderbird. Cost at the time was $60 per cam plus shipping. No brainer for me. I think Scott Main owns Cam Research and he's a Ford guy. I have NO connection to Cam Research....it's in Colorado and I live in Texas.
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I solved the fear of breaking in a new cam by using a service offered by Cam Research in Colorado. Send them any brand new cam and they'll break it in for you. Install it and start the engine. No problems. I don't know why more guys don't do this. I've done two cams with their service in two of my FE's and one of my sons did a cam for his 408 stroker small block. We've had no problems in years of driving my cars and his is a strip only Thunderbird. Cost at the time was $60 per cam plus shipping. No brainer for me. I think Scott Main owns Cam Research and he's a Ford guy. I have NO connection to Cam Research....it's in Colorado and I live in Texas.
Because it doesn't always work....
I've read of more than several flat cams, even after having this service.
One thing that's very important that is overlooked here is that every block doesn't have the lifter bores in the same spot.
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As far as the solid rollers how many miles do you get out of them although I only have 1500 miles in 3 years. Do you mostly just race or are any of these street cars. He did get 30 years out of his last build.
Seriously how often would you check them or you don’t until you maybe hear a little something, I did ask Barry about a solid roller and he thought for a street car it might not be the greatest idea.
I have Isky Red-zone solid roller lifters in my race car engine and it's been together for over ten years without issue. My street car has a Comp solid roller with Comp lifters and has around eight years use, couple thousand miles each season, some road trips, drag strip use, cruise nights. I'll probably send them in for Comp to service when I do the intake swap for EFI.
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My cam had the Cam Research break in done to it but I did the normal 20-30 minute break in anyway.
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wow Jameson I didnt know they last that long. Good to know for next time
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If you use a solid roller, buy pressure oiling units. Not cheap but they will live a long time. The old issues of solid rollers having problems in street/strip cars was mostly because older and cheaper lifters relied on splash oiling. Not much splash going on while idling through In-And-Out Burger. I run Howards pressure oiling, Morel and Isky also have quality parts. Morel usually the first choice of builders on the FE and 351C boards.
I check my solids every year.